To validate both of the shallow water wave models in the region away from the coast (distances > 10km), data from five NDBC buoys observed during 2004 were used. Statistical errors of model estimates of significant wave height, mean wave period and mean wave direction are computed and demonstrate that the performance of both models is quite good. The use of WAVEWATCH III forecasts available with a 25 km spatial resolution on the offshore open boundary to account for swells generated outside of the modeled region makes a significant contribution to the accuracy of the model forecasts. The accuarcy of the predicted wave properties improves by up to 25% when the offshore wave forcing is included. During periods of low wind the improvements can exceed 50%.
This wave forecast system is part of the Urban Ocean Observatory - The New York Harbor Observing and Prediction System (NYHOPS). NYHOPS is a real-time, web-based estuarine and coastal ocean observing and modeling system for the waters of New York, New Jersey and Connecticut. The observations consist of shore-based and moored platforms at strategic locations inside the harbor and at four sites along the coast of New Jersey, each with in-situ ocean and air-sea interaction measurements. The Stevens web site imports and serves all available real-time data (www.stevens.edu/maritimeforecast).